Jet-Lag is a Bummer
As is often the case with travelling East you are still somewhat on European clock and so my body told me to wake up at 5am, it was already light in Japan, the sun shining through our window. Chris had the same problem, as he was already awake as well. Jerome was still fast asleep, which was good because he probably needed it much more than us. I am not sure I can recommend any cure for early wake up with jet lag except try and try to sleep.
Early Breakfast
Somehow we dozed until it was time to get up for breakfast. We had arranged with our mama-san at Bingoya, our traditional ryokan in the port of Kurashiki to have breakfast at 8am. From bitter experience before on our travels to Japan we knew that the first morning in Japan would wake up very early. Breakfast was served in the adjoining room, a traditional Japanese breakfast with rice, miso soup and other local delicacies.
Japanese Breakfast
This always divided our opinions, as I absolutely love Japanese breakfast, Chris doesn’t mind eating it and Jerome just picks at his leaving more for me! Knowing this we always get him some more western style breakfast things like sweet bread or buns at one of the convenience stores, there was a 7Eleven around the corner from Bingoya so it was easy to pop out and get some plus some welcome local Mikan orange juice. During breakfast we discussed our plans for the rest of the day. We decided that we would go to see the castle and gardens in Okayama. I had a pretty good idea of the plans but it is always good to leave it a little flexible as you never know what each day might bring both in terms of nice surprises or weather.
Visiting Okayama Castle
The Okayama Korakuen itself draws crowds of visitors, as it is said to be one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan and lies just opposite Okayama castle on an island in the river Asahi. We drove back into Okayama and parked our car in a car park right next to the castle. The friendly guard advised us, that if we let the parking ticket be stamped by the castle, we would get our parking cheaper. He also showed us the way to the garden on a map. We have always found the people so friendly in Japan especially those in the tourist industry, many like him, will go out of their way to help you.
Entering the Castle Grounds
We walked over the bridge across the moat towards the castle’s stonewalls and the keep or donjon towering on the hill behind. Once inside castle’s ground we walked up the hill through a big wooden gate to the main donjon. If you want to visit the donjon you need to pay a small entrance fee. We bought a combined ticket for the castle and the garden which is cheaper than if you buy them individually.
Inside Okayama Castle
The main keep was destroyed in an air raid in World War II, then rebuilt and made into a museum. Therefore Okayama castle isn’t an authentic castle to visit but they did a good job at making it interesting for adults and children alike.
Experience Ancient Japan
We got to sit in a Japanese palanquin, you could hold an old gun or for a fee dress up in a kimono and try for yourself the local Bizen pottery.
The Impressive Gargoyles
A feature of the castle worth mentioning is the impressive golden fish gargoyles, which one can also enjoy just by walking through the grounds.
On our way to the Gardens
After visiting the castle, we walked across another more modern bridge to Korakuen.
Visiting Korakuen
Korakuen is quite unusual for a Japanese garden as it has expansive lawns in he centre (on which one isn’t allowed to walk, obviously). The lawns are broken up by many small ponds and streams making for a pleasant stroll, there is also a tea house and other Edo-period buildings.
Every Season is Different
Depending on the season you can enjoy many different plants and in common with other Japanese gardens they have corners of interest at different times of the year.
Plants in the Summer
Summer is probably one of the worst times in terms of flowering plants but the lotus were out and have always been one of my favourite flowers.
Kids will Love the Paths
Jerome loved the hidden, narrow paths, which there are plenty off and we watched some people feed the kois in the big pond.
The Koi Pond
There were plenty of them, in many different colours and sizes opening their big mouths, gaping for food. We climbed Yuishinzan Hill where we were able to look over the pond and other parts of the garden imagining the original lords doing the same centuries before.
Refreshments
We stopped for a drink by the stream, where an old wooden water wheel was slowly turning. Korakuen really is a beautiful garden and I can understand why people come from afar for a visit at any time of year.
Lunch at Restaurant Hekiusien
By now our tummies were grumbling and we chose to have lunch in one of the restaurants overlooking river Asahi. We chose Restaurant Hekisuien, the one closer to the bridge the other one closer to the garden entrance is closed on Mondays.
Lunch Overlooking the River
We got seats by the window overlooking the river Asahi and with views over to the castle. We had delicious cold soba and udon with ginger ale (one of our staple drinks in Japan) and cold tea. Jerome ate Omurice (rice omelette), which every child would enjoy.
Statue of Momotaro
With our stomachs filled and cooled off in the air conditioning we went back out into the afternoon heat. We walked to end of the island where we saw the small statue of Momotaro, a naked boy holding a peach. Momotaro is a symbol of Okayama and can be seen all over town. Legend has it, that he came down to earth in a peach and floated down the river Asahi.
Visit to Kurashiki
Okayama Castle and Korakuen were the perfect start to our holiday in Japan. The following day we would visit the old Bikan quarter of Kurashiki with its scenic canal and an ancient merchants house, reminiscent of a tiny Venice.
Where to Stay:
Kurashiki: We wish we could have stayed at the amazing Toutou Gallery right in the heat of the Bikan Quarter
Shin Kurashiki: Bingoya’s traditional rooms are dotted among a serene garden, a short drive from Kurashiki
Okayama: There is a real dirth of good hotels but one cannot go wrong with ANA Crowne Plaza
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