Moving on from Temple of Literature
Leaving the picturesque Temple of Literature behind we found ourselves back on the bustling streets of Hanoi. Having done a lot of sightseeing since the early morning we felt like heading back to the hotel (hello jetlag!), however, due to the proximity to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum Complex we decided to tick another sight in Hanoi off the list and complete the round we had set ourselves in the morning.
Home of the Embassies
The district where the Mausoleum Complex is located is home to most embassies. We made it into a game, who could spot the next one and were curious if we could find the German and British embassy among them. The large mansions, almost all of them in a French Colonial style but often with features of their home lands, were all well protected by guards in uniforms, some standing outside the gates and along the walls, others enclosed in their little huts. Some of the villas were beautiful with wooden shutters and balconies, others were hidden behind high walls and we could only just make out the rooftops.
Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum Complex
When we reached the grounds of the Mausoleum Complex we saw busloads of Vietnamese tourists everywhere. The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex is a popular place of pilgrimage for Vietnamese people. The first building that caught our eye was the actual mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh, where the former prime minister and president of Vietnam has found his eternal resting place in the brutalist, marble building, which was designed in true communist style. The large red flag with the yellow star was gently blowing in the wind across from the mausoleum. A wide empty promenade, except for a few tourists, runs in front of the imposing structure.
Public Viewing
This is how I imagine parts of Pyongyang to be like, plenty of space for the parades and communist armies to parade along. The mausoleum houses Ho’s dead body, despite his wish to be cremated he still lies deep in the building in a glass sarcophagi. His frail body has to travel to Russia once a year to be re-embalmed. On the few occasions when the public is allowed to view the dead body, the queues can snake hundreds of meters through the ground and waiting time may be hours. Especially the older generation revere him and he is affectionately called “Uncle Ho”.
One Pillar Pagoda
Walking to the left of Ho’s mausoleum we bumped into the guards, with their impeccable, white uniforms, striding along for the daily “Change of the Guards”, that apparently could rival the London’s equivalent in pomp. We watched them stride past and then found ourselves at the One Pillar Pagoda. The wooden temple is as the name hints set on one single stone post, inside a murky little pond. The stairs leading up to the temple were crowded with visitors. I preferred to admire the peculiar structure from down below anyway, the colourful Buddhist flags everywhere just added to its charm. Jerome was more interested in the souvenir shops than the actual sight. He had been after a non la (cone hat) since our arrival in Hanoi. After some bargaining we got a simple one for about 3USD, not sure if that was a good deal or not. Anyway it made Jerome happy and he immediately put the hat on, proud of his purchase. We also got an ice cream and sat down in the gardens of the pagoda, when we saw some long tailed critters running past we quickly jumped up and left, savouring the cool treat while walking.
The Presidential Palace
To enter the Presidential Palace grounds we had to find our way back to the front of the mausoleum and shortly after to a little entrance gate where we purchased tickets (in our opinion far too overpriced) and were searched for weapons and explosives before finally walking into the grounds. The Presidential Palace was straight ahead and could not be missed with its yellow coat of paint. The beaux-arts style building is entirely off limits for visitors and can only be admired from afar. Turning left we saw gatherings of people in front of some houses, first there was the collection of cars the president had used, next door the politburo’s meeting room, with tables and chairs and House 54 where president Ho Chi Minh lived. The rooms looked rather bare and we could not imagine living in any of them, they looked rather devoid of any homely comforts.
The Botanical Gardens
Chris and Jerome were keen to leave the history behind and get to the botanical gardens, which are located right behind the Presidential Palace. We reached them by strolling past a large pond with kois and fountains. The gardens, as with the rest of the grounds and buildings were rather a disappointment to us and we failed to see the attraction to all the Vietnamese people. There was a concrete pagoda and a flower trellis where Uncle Ho used to receive his guests. From here the garden was cordoned off and guards controlled that no one was trying to get past, but they seemed to ignore two girls walking up the back stairs of the Presidential Palace to take photos. When I stood close to them to take a photo as well they just smiled and turned their heads away.
Uncle Ho’s Stilt House
The same applied for the stilt house, it was underwhelming, I had imagined a beautiful structure like we had seen in Japan, overlooking beautiful gardens and rooms albeit in minimalist style. Instead we found a humble, traditional stilt house with concrete floor and only the absolute essential furniture inside. There were telephones and a helmet that Ho Chi Minh had used and the bed he once slept in. He truly was a person who needed little in his life, I guess other presidents and leaders should take him as a good example.
Souvenir Shops
The exit was lined with souvenir shops and a café, very much like at any other attraction all over the world. The souvenirs though were mostly related to Ho Chi Minh, there were plates, cups and holograms and some other tat to keep the kids happy too.
Goodbye Uncle Ho
Leaving the Ho Chi Minh Complex behind we wandered back onto the bustling streets of Hanoi. Before returning to our hotel, we had timed it perfectly for a stop along the way at the famous train alley to watch the express run through the tight, narrow lane, that had turned into a sight of its own in Hanoi over the past few years. Jerome was rather excited, as a keen train spotter, albeit jet-lagged he could not wait to arrive at the train tracks. More in our following post…
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Our favourite Hotels in Vietnam:
Hanoi
Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi
Stay in a traditional colonial building near the Old Quarter welcoming guests since 1901. The heated pool is the perfect place to rest your tired legs after exploring the city.
Lapis Hotel
Lapis Hotel offers exceptional value and amazing views from its rooftop pool over Hanoi. Don’t miss the delicious breakfast.
Hue
Pilgrimage Village and Boutique Resort
Set among verdant jungle, the resort offers a tranquil spot to stay away from the bustling streets of Hue.
Azerai La Residence
Incredible views of the Perfume River and its central location make the Azerai the perfect place to stay and explore the nearby Imperial City.
Near Hue
Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa
Treat yourself to an overwater villa at this serene resort near Hue and be pampered in their excellent spa. Take the complimentary bikes to explore the nearby fishing villages and beaches.
Hoi An
Atlas Hotel
Enjoy the cool architecture of this boutique hotel and explore the historical town and its sights, all within walking distance.
Tropical Home Villa
Fancy a more intimate setting then you should consider a stay at this beautiful villa near Hoi An’s night market.
That is amazing how the train passes soooooooo close to the buildings and to people. And you said it was going at a bit of a pace. I guess the locals know and get out of the way.
An excellent entry. I like your reference to Pyongyang….. I have to say the Uncle Ho’s mausoleum, impressive though it is, pales into insignificance when compared to the size and grandeur of the one accommodating Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong-il in Pyongyang. The parades in Pyongyang are not held at the mausoleum (Palace of the the Sun) but rather at Kim Il Sung square in the city centre – a massive open space.
Pyongyang must surely be on another level, I probably cannot even imagine the scale of pomp that is displayed for their leader(s). I have always had a fascination for their regime. Would you recommend a visit to North Korea? At the moment probably not but if things were to hopefully calm down again?
I would thoroughly recommend a visit to North Korea and am keen to return myself. In terms of timing – right now no.. but hopefully things will calm down soon without it and other places being obliterated. Not a place for kids .. Jerome would be bored senseless. I came across a few tour groups but not a kid in sight.