Paris – The Eiffel Tower

Paris – Our visit to the Eiffel Tower

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A false fire alarm woke us earlier than we would have liked to, but we felt there was no point going back to sleep and instead went for a lazy brunch at the bistro next door to the hotel, where we enjoyed a classic Croque Madame. We got some seats outside on the sidewalk but as soon as we sat down raindrops started to fall.

Paris montmatre restaurant

We had originally planned to walk all the way to the Eiffel tower but decided to opt for a journey on the metro instead.  Jerome was happier as he loves to experience all forms of transport.

paris metro station grand boulevard

We got off at Trocadero and walked the steps down to the Eiffel tower with a few other tourists who like us braved the rainy weather to visit this famous icon of Paris.  This is perhaps the best place way to reach the Tower as you get great views across the river to it as you go down, plus the neo-Classic architecture of the palaces at the Trocadero is worth viewing too.

paris trocadero architecture

paris trocadero statue

The tower is simply breath taking. It was designed by Gustave Eiffel and built for the World Exhibition of 1889. It is funny to think how criticised it was at that time and what a success it has become since then. You cannot even think of Paris without picturing the Tour Eiffel in your mind. Be careful of all the hawkers and tourist scammers as you approach the Eiffel tower, they can be quite obnoxious and watch all your bags and backpacks. If you want to go up I would advise to go as early in the day as possible. To admire it from a distance, it is most beautiful at night when the Eiffel tower is lit up with thousands of lights.

paris eiffel tower

paris trocadero tourist umbrella

paris trocadero eiffel tower souvenirs

paris france eiffel tower carousell

The rain did have a positive effect for us though, the queues to get onto the lifts can be horrendous at times and you might be waiting for hours. Not much fun, especially if you have children with you. I would recommend booking tickets in advance online which allows you to jump the queues somewhat.

There are different tickets to choose from – stairs or lift access to the 2nd floor (115 meters) or lift access to the top (276 meters). If you are going to the very top, you will have to change lifts on the second floor and wait in the long line. We opted just for level 2.

paris france eiffel tower puddle art

Jerome desperately wanted to go up in the lift to the second level of the Eiffel tower.

paris france eiffel tower lift

paris france eiffel tower architecture wrought iron

paris france eiffel tower tourist

There he ran and grabbed one of the coin-operated binoculars while we walked around the platform to take pictures and look at Paris from the top.

paris france eiffel tower binocular

The rain had ceased and the sky brightened up while we enjoyed the views all the way over to Sacre Coeur, down the Seine, across the Trocadero and over Le Champs des Mars. It was also astounding to see the wrought iron detail of the Eiffel tower close up and it is hard to imagine that the tower needs to be painted every seven years otherwise the iron construction might be damaged by rust.

paris france eiffel tower view trocadero

paris france eiffel tower seine boats

paris france eiffel tower view sacre coeur

paris france eiffel tower view chimney tops

paris france eiffel tower champs des mars

We decided to take the stairs down, you need a head for heights as the ironwork leaves gaps and allows an amazing view through.  Jerome scampered ahead leaving Dad more tentatively descending as he is not the best when there is a big drop with a visible overhang.

On the first floor Jerome liked the interactive games and information screens about the History of the Eiffel tower and this kept him entertained for longer than I had anticipated. We slowly made our way down to the ground, Chris was happy to have solid earth underneath his feet again.

paris france eiffel tower

paris france eiffel tower top

paris france eiffel tower window

By now we were aware that we needed to get back to Hotel Nell to collect our luggage. Once a year Paris has a traffic free Sunday, no cars apart from taxis and emergency vehicles were allowed to drive, so the streets were basically empty. This made it the perfect day to get onto the Paris Velib bikes to cycle back along the Seine rather then getting onto the Metro again. Jerome really excited that he was able to get onto the full sized bikes and enjoyed cycling back.  The sun even came out for the last stretch past the museums.

Paris france velib bike hire

paris france velib bike hire cycling park

paris france louvre pyramid

All in all a great weekend in Paris, Jerome enjoyed it as much as we did, and we want to come back soon to visit Versailles and venture a bit away from the main sights.

paris france airport orly

We found Paris very child friendly, well the French in general are, but obviously the usual problems with push chairs might be encountered when trying to use the Metro due to lack of elevators in many stations so consider a sling or baby carrier backpack.  Friendly except perhaps the legendary surly french waiters…but that adds to the charm.

Paris – Sacre Coeur, Montmatre and Canal St Martin

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One evening, after Jerome had finished his French homework he mentioned that he would like to go and see the Eiffel tower in Paris. We had not been to Paris with him yet, despite our many travels, even though it is only a short ride on Eurostar and a must visit destination in Europe for most people. We find that the cultural experiences of travel even in term time more than outweigh the challenges of doing homework away from home.

When I looked into our options, I found that Eurostar was way too expensive for a weekend and booked a great deal, including a modern boutique hotel on British Airways. We have often found deals on the airlines can include a hotel for all of us at almost the same price as the flights.  The flight was Friday evening, which gave Jerome and myself enough time to go to the airport after school. Chris was working in Germany and took the train direct to Paris Gare de l’Est.

Once we had touched down in Paris Orly we took a taxi into Paris to check in to Hotel Nell Residence. Hotel Nell is located in the heart of Montmatre, close to Peletier metro station and offers refined apartments designed by Philip Starck, so is my kind of hotel. I hate staying at big chain hotels, except for a few exceptions. Nell was much more intimate, the concierge extremely helpful and more welcoming than the hotels we had experienced in Paris before. Our room had it’s own private little kitchen, useful if you’re planning on staying longer and with children, especially little ones, as you have the option to cook your own food rather than relying on restaurants during your stay. Jerome had his own bed in the living room and that made him very happy and us too.

Paris France Hotel Residence Nell bedroom

Paris France Hotel Nell Residence

Paris France Hotel Residence Nell kitchenette

Paris France Hotel Montmatre patisserie

On Saturday, after a classic French breakfast of coffee and croissants in the boulangerie across from the hotel, we started our sightseeing by strolling north through Montmatre towards Sacre Coeur. The weather was perfect, a warm sunny autumn day, with no need for wearing jackets or jumpers. We always take a small backpack for essentials, including games or activities for Jerome, and make sure we can slip extra layers in for the whole family in case of weather changes.

The closer we got to Sacre Coeur the busier it seemed to get, from the rest of this blog you will know we like to avoid the tourist crowds, but with the major Paris sights there is no options but to immerse in the experience.

Paris France Montmatre children

Paris France montmatre flower shop

Paris France restaurant montmatre

One of Chris and my fondest memories has always been riding the carousell in Paris so we tried to get Jerome to go with us. Jerome at first did not want to, maybe he was too embarrassed, but when I got onto one of the horses he changed his mind. We paid 2€ for a ride, which is very reasonable, and a fun treat for the children as a break on a walk around town.

Paris France Sacre coeur carousell

Paris France sacre coeur carousell ride

Paris France sacre coeur carousell art

Paris France souvenir tat

We then walked up the stairs towards Sacre Coeur – if you have a pushchair with you it might be easier to take the funicular to the top. We slowly ascended the steps, stopping every now and then to take in the view of the city. Watch out for men trying to sell you souvenirs, some of them can be forceful and might just try to slip a bracelet on you and try to charge you ridiculous money for it. Lots of people sat and relaxed on the grass in the warm autumn sunshine.

Paris France sacre coeur view montmatre

The queue to get into Sacre Coeur was rather long and Jerome said he did not want to queue, so we walked on towards Place du Tetre. A few steps from Sacre Coeur Jerome stopped and excitedly pointed at the Eiffel tower in the distance, which were finally able to see for the first time.

Paris France montmatre eiffel tower

Place du Tetre is a popular spot to sit in one of the open-air cafes and restaurants surrounding the square, while watching artists creating their latest paintings. Place du Tetre lies at the centre of Montmatre village, which was home to many famous painters at the beginning of the 20th century, Picasso, Monet, Dali, Matisse to mention a few. They all took inspiration in Monmatre, at that time it was a village upon the hills surrounded by vineyards.

Paris France montmatre artist painter

Paris France montmatre painters cafe artist

Paris France montmatre cobbles stone streets

We ventured on, into the side streets, and away from the buzzing beehive of tourists to see the little backstreets and squares of the village. On Place Emile Goudeau we stopped to listen to an organ player, tres French with his cigarette in his mouth. He was kind enough to show curious Jerome how to insert a new song.

Paris France montmatre organ player

Paris France montmatre popular restaurants

Paris France montmatre fruit stall

By now we were quite hungry and looked for a restaurant to have lunch. We chose Restaurant La Mascotte on Rue des Abbesses, perfect if you love to eat fresh fish and oysters sourced from the Bretagne. Friends of meat will not be disappointed either; Chris had the beef tartar and devoured it. Unfortunately, all the seats outside were taken, but we did not mind as La Mascotte dining room is decorated with art deco style mirrors and marquetry. Be prepared to eat a lot of food, the portions were huge and there was no way we could finish a full starter and main course. I would advise to go for either, or to share.

Paris France montmatre restaurant la mascotte

Paris France montmatre restaurant la mascotte moules

Now we definitely needed to walk off the food, so our next sight on our list was Le Moulin Rouge. It really only is a red mill, unless you visit one of their cabaret shows, but what I found interesting is that the seediness of the area still exists. I could see Jerome was a bit embarrassed by some of the shops and wanted to move on quickly. You might want to bare in mind that there are a lot of sex shops and strip clubs in the area and if you want to avoid questions from less open minded little ones it might be best to stay clear of Boulevard de Clichy.

Paris France montmatre shop adults only

Paris France montmatre streetart spaceinvader

Paris France park birthday party

Paris France park sign animals plants nature

We enjoyed a lazy stroll, admiring the architecture, past Gare du Nord and Gare de L’est through Jardin Villemin and ended up at Canal Saint Martin.

At the canal we took a break and watched the boats going through the weirs and sat down along one side of the canal.  Resting in the sun and we watched some locals steer their radio controlled sailboats on the water. Jerome must have loved watching them a lot, because at some point he said that he would like a sailboat kit like theirs for Christmas.

This area is a nice break from the business of the tourist sights and feels more like the real Paris.

Paris France canal stmartin weir boat

Paris France canal stmartin saturday afternoon

Paris France canal stmartin radio controlled boat

We then walked on, past the lock and weir where the boats go into a tunnel – very exciting to watch for children – the council has made the area on top of the tunnel into a park, with playgrounds, petanque areas and fountains. In fact I was very surprised to notice how many playgrounds there were dotted around everywhere in the city, other towns should take Paris as a leading example, especially London where playgrounds for children are scarce in the central districts.

Paris France canal st martin playground

Paris France petanque boules

We arrived at the Seine just as the sun was setting. The river quays crowded with locals who had brought a picnic and were drinking beer and wine in the late afternoon sun.

Paris France seine houses architecture

Paris France seine riverside picnic

We reached Notre Dame, our final sight before dinner.

Paris France notre dame architecture cathedral

I had reserved us a table for restaurant Terroir Parisien on lafourchette.com. The friendly concierge at the hotel had recommended Restaurant Terroir Parisien to me and I would highly recommend it to you now based on our dinner there. The chef only uses ingredients from the area around Paris and the dishes were very tasty. When we left the restaurant the air was still warm and we walked back all the way to the hotel, enjoying the night time lights of Paris including the Centre Pompidou.  Children will love to ride the escalators to the top.

Paris France seine by night

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